Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Tailored Garments

Diane Keaton with Woody Allen, from Annie Hall, circa 1977. This movie did a great deal to popularize the trend of women wearing men's suits. Diane Keaton still will show up to events quite often in a man's suit. Other stars such as Sissy Spacek adhere to this trend still as well. 
A fitted look by Phillip Lim, 2008. Short trousers have become a recent trend for even a 'dressed up' look. From Dior to Phillip Lim men's suits in recent years have been paired with shorts. 
Zac Effron at the 2009 Oscar Awards, attired in a closely fitted tailored suite by Dolce and Gabbana. 
Marie Antoinette and children. The costume of the day was quite lavish and required intricate detailing in its production. From undergarments to the lace trim on the sleeves, all required detailed tailoring. 

Beau Brummel, circa early 1800's. In a well tailored costume. Beau Brummel is accredited for inventing what is to this day the man's suit. This was called the 'dandy' look and has significant social impacts. This look was created in rebellion to the formally popular lavish costumes prior to the French Revolution. 


Draped Garments

A man wearing a sarong. A very simple draped costume. In American society sarongs are the typical uniform for the beach. 
Tilda Swinton at the Oscars, 2009, in an elegant draped ensemble by Lanvin. Despite the stronger influence of tailored garments purely draped garments are still relevant today. 

Sharon Stone in a Fendi fur wrap. The use of animal skins in this draping fashion is as old as man kind himself. Animal rights groups strongly protest the use of fur and many sects of society do view wearing fur as wrong or immoral. However, despite this fur garments still play an important role on fashion. 

From 3000 - 300 B.C. this wrapped costume was the standard form of dress in Egypt. Egyptians influence on fashion can still be seen throughout the times from the use of linen to hair and makeup styles and trends. 


In ancient Greece the Chiton was the standard form of dress. It is simply a large piece of fabric draped around the body. 














Monday, February 16, 2009

Sexual Enhancement

Two different interpretations of the “Little Black Dress”, Left: Versace. Right, Lanvin. Circa Fall 2008. The little black dress has been a classic now for almost a century. First made popular in the 1920’s by the iconic Coco Chanel it continues to be a basic must have for every woman’s closet and is constantly reinterpreted. 

Environmental Protection

Long sleeve sheepskin shearling coat by Theory. Circa 2008. Animal skins have been used for a millennia as clothing, long before humans had the technologies to weave or knit fabrics. Their use continues vastly to this day of course and they do have natural characteristics which makes them ideal for end uses such as environmental protection. The coat seen here not only provides great warmth but has been water proofed to weather the elements as well. 

Ceremonial

Ceremonial academic robes are seen here at a graduation ceremony at the University of New York at Stony Brook, circa May 2004. 

Group Membership

Boy Scout Troop 6, Presbyterian Church. Circa 1945. Wearing uniforms has long been a way of showing membership to a particular group. It is felt by many that uniforms such as these enhance the solidarity of the group. 

Gender Differentiation

A fashion model poses in a skunk fur jacket designed by Christian Dior and holds a red calfskin handbag. Circa 1949. The carrying of handbags has long been a form of gender differentiation. There has been, is, and most likely will be periods of androgyny. However, the handbag is still typically thought of as feminine. 

Decoration

Christian Dior Fur Coats designed by Frederic Castet. Circa 1969. The use of leapords, cheetahs, ocelots, and jaguars lends an exotic element to the costume and serves as decoration. Nowadays, these types of furs are not commonly used due to environment protection laws; however, all these prints are still commonly used for the purpose of decoration. 


Thursday, February 5, 2009

Jean Paul Gaultier, French, b. 1952: Ensemble, a) rayon, silk b) wool, a) L. at centre back: 31 ¼ in. (80.6 cm). b) L. at side seam: 44 ¾ in. (113.7 cm), spring/summer 1996 (New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Richard Martin, 1996, Accession ID: 1996.257a, b); photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

André Courrèges, French, b. 1923: Dress (Coat-dress), wool, silk, l. at centre back: 38 in. (96.5 cm), 1965 (New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Kimberly Knitwear Inc, 1974, Accession ID:1974.136.3); photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Christian Dior Haute Couture, French, founded 1947; Designer: Christian Dior, French, 1905–1957: Chérie, Dinner dressr, silk, a) length at centre back: 23.5 in. (59.7 cm) b) length at centre back: 35.5 in. (90.2 cm), spring/summer 1947 (New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Christian Dior, 1948, Accession ID:C.I.48.13a, b); photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Elsa Schiaparelli, French, born Italy, 1890–1973 : Apollo of Versailles, cape, silk, metal, paste, l. at centre back 40 in. (101.5 cm), 1938 (New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Estate of Lady Mendl, 1951, Accession ID:C.I.51.83); photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art


House of Chanel, French, founded 1913; Designer: Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, French, 1883–1971 (attrib.): Evening dress, silk, metallic thread, sequins, a) L. shoulder to hem: 42 in. (106.7 cm). b) L. shoulder to hem: 38 in. (96.5 cm), 1926–1927 (New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Mrs. Georges Gudefin, in memory of Mrs. Clarence Herter, 1965, Accession ID:C.I.65.47.2a, b); photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Madeleine Vionnet, French, 1876–1975: Evening dress, metal thread, no dimensions available, 1938 (New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Mrs. Harrison Williams, Lady Mendl, and Mrs. Ector Munn, 1946, Accession ID:C.I.46.4.24a, b); photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art



Jacques Doucet, French, 1871–1929: Ensemble (Dress), wool, silk, glass, a) l. at centre back: 50 in. (127 cm). b) l. at centre back: 58 ½ in. (148.6 cm). c) l. at centre back: 32 ½ in. (82.5 cm), 1920–1923 (New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Mrs. W.G. Constable, 1975, Accession ID:1975.15a–c); photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art




Monday, February 2, 2009

Welcome all to my source book. I have never kept a blog before so this shall be an interesting and hopefully useful experience. 

Sunday, February 1, 2009