Final Project Part III

This new street trend (the wrap around scarf and combat boots) can be seen here paired together in the photograph above and below. Both are from Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 Runway Collection. 

Combat Boots are back and are no longer associated purely with the punk look. Designers from Marc Jacobs to Armani to DSquared have all featured combat boots heavily in their Fall 2009 Runway Collections. It is another example of how a classic associated with one look can be reused and reinterpreted to create an entirely different aesthetic. 

The latest street trend is the wrap around scarf. While the above look is punk-inspired, the wrap around scarf can and is being used by many to create a variety of looks from punk to teddy boy to beatnik. It can also stand alone in creating a new look not before seen. 

Final Project Part II

Rarely do the runways capture exactly the look which inspired the collection. This is true for Gucci's Fall 2009 Runway Collection that clearly has taken elements from the Punk movement, but has revamped it for the current times and for the elite - as anyone who can afford Gucci is not living on the streets. 

The Hip-Hop movement began on the streets and in its initial phases its fashion was very unpolished. However, as those leading the Hip-Hop movement gained fame and fortune their look has been fine tuned and has evolved into something completely different than what it started as. Iceberg's Fall 2009 Runway Collection encapsulates the look of what Hip-Hop has become. 

It has been said that 'it's all been done before' and therefore each collection is a reinterpretation of a former look. For Chloe's Spring 2009 Ready to Wear Collection the look is that of an ultra polished Hippie. The Hippie movement was one of rebellion and thus in turn a very laid back, unwashed, almost homeless-like costume evolved. However, Chloe has taken the basic design structure of the Hippie's clothing and turned it into something spectacular. 

Helmut Lang's Fall 2009 Runway Collection draws upon many past looks for inspiration. However, the more prevalent clearly comes from the Mod look of the 1960's. As one can clearly see in the images (above and below) it is almost as if one were looking at the modern - male version of Twiggy. 

Comme Des Garcons is forever breaking down the barriers of what is considered 'normal' or appropriate. As one can see in both images (above and below) inspiration is drawn from the classic Zoot Suit; however reinterpreted in very different ways from the original. The outfit below is complete with a high waist (as was the classic Zoot Suit) however in this interpretation pants are replaced with a skort. The above outfit keeps in more in accord to a traditional Zoot Suit, however the pants are the remodeled aspect in this instance too, as they are cut quite slim in contrast to the traditional Zoot Suit which normally had very baggy high waisted pants. 

Roberto Cavalli is famous for his outlandish and sexy designs. His Spring 2009 Runway Collection is reminiscent of another era, to be more precise the Disco era. As one can see in the images (above and below) through his use of certain materials and prints it is as if the photos were taken at Sutdio 54. 

Italian Fashion House Costume National is always on the cutting edge. In their Fall 2009 Runway Collection (seen above and below) their inspiration in part was clearly taken from the Beatnik look of the 1950's. Dark and brooding - intellectual and poetic was the original Beatnik look and Costume National resembles it greatly in their latest collection. 

The images, above and below, are both modern reinterpretations of the Teddy Boy look. Both are from Band of Outsiders Fall 2009 Runway Collection. 

Final Project Part I

Hip Hop

 

Hip Hop is a movement that centered around music. Music unlike most any other heard before it. One may consider it the Jazz of the 1980’s. Stars who personify this ideal include Missy Elliot, Kayne West, and Sean Puffy Combs. The hip-hop costume has transformed itself over the years. What began as somewhat rough is now a very polished high-end look. Classy and elegant but still somewhat rough around the edges – this can be seen in such hip-hop lines as Sean John.

Punk

 

The late 1970’s saw a movement of rebellion, but unlike that of its late 1960’s counterpart. The punk ideal started with music and revolved around drugs and sex. However, unlike a decade before its message was not peace and love, but more that of anarchy. The punk look is harsh: leather, outlandish spiked hair, and an overall aesthetic of ‘the tough guy’. 

Disco

 

The era of disco came after what is considered to be the mod period. The disco movement, as were many others, fueled by excessive drug use and sex. Although the drugs seemed to vary from decade to decade, the disco era was all about cocaine. Perhaps the most iconic symbol of the era was Studio 54. A nightclub in Manhattan where anyone who was anyone could be found, as well as those ‘wanna-bes’. Stars such as Diana Ross of the Supremes were regulars at Studio 54. 

Hippie

 

The hippie movement really began in San Francisco, in the now iconic Haight district. Their form of dress was designed to contradict that of the establishment. The 1960’s was filled with turmoil from the war in Vietnam to violent campus unrest such as what occurred at Kent State University in Ohio. There were many iconic figures of the day who personified this personality, but Janis Joplin was perhaps the greatest. 

Mod

 

The Mod look was all the rage during the 1960’s. As trends often do, this one too seemed to start in Europe, exemplified by such models of the time as Twiggy. This look has resurfaced again, in a big way, on the runways for Fall 2009. 

Beatniks

 

The beatniks stemmed from downtown Manhattan in neighborhoods such as Greenwich Village and SoHo. They were intellectuals, or at least liked to think of themselves as such. They would sit in coffee houses and discuss philosophy or write poetry. Their form of dress differed from the norm at the time and can be characterized as somewhat dark and brooding.

Teddy Boys

 

The Teddy Boy style began, as many other movements have, in Britain. It was widely popular in London during the 1950’s and was inspired by the Edwardian period. The look was what would now be considered somewhat preppy; very Band of Outsiders.

Zoot Suit

 

A zoot suit is a high waisted – wide legged suit popular in the 1930’s mostly in the African American and Latino communities.  Here is pictured actor Edward Olmos wearing a zoot suit. 

Renaissance inspired by Prada Fall 2009 Ready to Wear. 

Rococo inspired by DSquared Fall 2009 Ready to Wear. 

Modern inspired by Costume National Ready to Wear Fall 2009. 

Post-Modernism inspired by Alexander McQueen Fall 2009 Ready to Wear. 

Minimalism inspired  by Philip Lim Ready to Wear Fall 2009. 

Gothic inspired by Doo Ri - Fall 2009 Ready to Wear Collection. 

Assignment 9.1 - Historical and Fashion Photography References

Beau Brummel, 1778-1840. His contribution to fashion is undeniable, as he is attributed with creating the man’s suit, its basic construction which is still used to this day. While his contribution to fashion is great, his personal life was one of struggles and tragedy.

 

Catherine the Great, 1729-1796, reigned as Empress of Russia from 1762-1769. 

Marie Antoinette, 1755-1793, was Queen of France married to King Louis XVI. Her intrigue continues some 300 years after her death. Her tragic and untimely death at age 37 came as a result of the French Revolution. This period in time had immense impacts on the world as we know it from politics to fashion – it changed the world. 

Madame Pompadour, 1721-1764, was mistress to King Louis XV of France. She possessed great style and is an excellent example of the luxurious costume worn by those on court at Versailles.

Queen Elizabeth I, 1533-1603, was Queen of England, and daughter of Henry VIII. Her reign saw numerous historical changes throughout Europe. She is nicknamed ‘the virgin queen’ as she was never married. Although, a virgin she was not.  Her many lovers of her lifetime have been a great topic of discussion and have been the theme of numerous movies. 

Ivan Vasilyevich, aka Ivan the Terrible, 1533-1584. Infamous as the Tsar of Russia who killed his own son.

Henry VIII, 1491-1547, was King of England. His historical importance exists on many levels. During the Tudor time period he broke away from the Catholic Church, then the strongest organization in all of Europe to form the Church of England in order to divorce his first wife Katherine and marry Anne Bolelyn. He infamously had several wives sentenced to death. In his portrait here, one can see a (perhaps unfortunate) fashion trend of the time, the codpiece. 

Lorenzo DeMedici, 1449-1492. The Medici family sponsored works of art by such artists as Raphel and Michalangelo. They were at the heart of the Italian Renaissance. Their story is one of great historical importance as their efforts in art and architecture can still be seen widely across Europe today. 

Circa 1436, Pisano, Portrait of a Princess of the House of Este. This is a classic representation of Italian Renaissance costume. Notice the full forehead, during this time period hair was shaved high back, this was considered an ideal of beauty of the time. 

Queen Nefertit of Egypt’s 18^th Dynasty circa 1350 B.C.

Assignment 8.1 - Part II

Military Inspired Combat Boots. Rick Owens Spring 2009. 

Military Inspired Safari Jacket. Phillip Lim Spring 2009. 

Military Inspired Cargo Pants. Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2009. 

Military Inspired Leather Jacket. Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2009. 

Military Inspired Classic Trench Coat. Burberry Spring 2009. 

Assignment 8.1 -19th Century

“Mahone’s Counterattack” by Don Troiani. Troops of the 9^th Corps take on the 6^th Virginia during the Battle of the Crate, Petersburg, Virginia July 30^th, 1864.

Harpers Weekly depicts Union soldiers around a camp site. “